Build your own Aquarium.

5-Feet Aquarium.

So finally I am done building my own 5-feet aquarium.

Here are a few links that will help you out building your own.

Link 1:

http://www.austinglass.com.au/aquariums.html

Link 2: Glass Thickness Calculator.

http://www.theaquatools.com/building-your-aquarium

See to it that you are well through with the whole process. Here are a tips that may be helpful for you.

  

11. I preferred the method 2 presented in Link1. The only difference was the side glasses are placed on the bottom glass instead of side glass sticking to the edge of the bottom glass. See figure below.

22. You can use a the normal general purpose silicon sealant instead of getting some costly aquarium sealant. I have good experience with china made brand “GP” and “Resibond”. The sealant glue costs you around Rs 125 and the silicon gun cost you around Rs 80.

33. My bottom glass had cracked when I had placed the aquarium for drying in hot sun. Note Acetic glue cures via air moisture not via heat. I had to replace the bottom glass. To remove the glass you need to use a Topaz Razor blade and a pen knife.  The razor blade is used to cut open the sealant and the pen knife is used to widen the insertion created by the blade. Once the blade and pen knife is in, just drag the blade to cut open the selant and then drag the pen knife to widen the cut. See pics below.

44. See to it that you are present at the glass vendor while cutting the glass. The vendor may dupe you by providing a normal glass instead of a 'float glass'. A normal glass has lot more irregularities due to which it may break easily in pressure. 

Fresh Water Aquascaping.

Nano Aquariums.

Half and Half Aquariums

Garden Ponds - St Louis Butterfly House.

Garden Pond I came across.

Relationship between Light and CO2 levels for Aquatic Plant Growth.

Aquatic Plants use a process known as photosynthesis to produce the carbohydrates they need for life. Photosynthesis requires light for energy and CO2 to drive the chemical reactions. 


The process of photosynthesis requires a specific light energy threshold. In other words, there is a point where light has reached a specific intensity to start photosynthesis in Aquatic Plants. If the light is not bright enough, photosynthesis will not occur. Beyond that threshold and up to some high light level, photosynthesis will run faster and faster. 


According to known practice, when light levels exceed two watts per gallon, supplementary CO2 is required for most aquariums.


The relationship between light and CO2 levels is important. The diagram (Fig1) below explains it conceptually. 

Fig1: Relationship between Light and CO2 levels for Aquatic Plant Growth.

Aquatic Plants have a limited amount of stored energy at their disposal for 
1. CO2 Assimilation.
2. Light Utilization.


At low light and low CO2 there is not much energy to play around with for up or down-regulation of the pools of Chlorophyll or enzymes contained in the plant. 


If we then add a little more CO2 to the system the plant can afford to invest less energy and resources in CO2 uptake and that leaves more energy for optimizing the light utilization - Chlorophyll can be produced without fatal consequences for the energy. Hence, although we have not raised the
light, the plant can now utilize the available light more efficiently. 


Exactly the same explanation can be used to explain why increased light can stimulate growth even at very low CO2 concentrations. With more light available, less investment in the light utilization system is necessary and the free energy can be invested into a more efficient CO2 uptake system so that the CO2, which is present in the water, can be more efficiently extracted.




Courtesy: John LeVasseur

Lush Green Lawn - Another 2 months Away - Part 1.

My Aquarium was in a terrible state with outburst of Brown Algae (Diatoms). I am quite sure this was due to chemical fertilizer I was using during the frequent water changes last month. Diatoms had covered up all my plants.

I was able to clean up the diatoms on the Amazon Sword and Vallis with some cotton wool. Cobamba were the most affected. I need to uproot them for a quick clean under running water. I cannot use a cotton wool here. :)

The Aquatic Grass also was also in a bad shape.

So I finally decided to tear down and rebuilt the whole Walstad Aquarium setup.

Here are a few points that were kept in mind:

1. Last time, Aquatic grass lawn was not in scope. Also since it was my first time(for Walstad Setup), I had kept a the gardening area small for the aquatic plants.
This time I wanted to create are large space for the aquatic garden.

2. After going through some aquascaping articles, I came across some tips for making aquascaping, a bit more beautiful.

• Use the 'Golden Ration'/'Rule of Thirds':
To get a smooth aquascape you need to set one or at maximum two focal points. This is usually something that pleases your eye. This is where the golden ratio comes in. Do not place your best plant (your focal point) in the middle. Place it at 1:1.618 ratio.
• Create Apparent Depth via plant ordering: To create depth you need to arrange the plants in ascending order of their height. Place the shortest plant at the front and the tallest at the back.
• Create Depth via with gravel levelling: Another way of creating depth is to level the gravel in a slope. The gravel at the back should be at a higher level and the gravel at the front should be at a lower level. Keeping the gravel flat decreases the apparent depth. Levelling the gravel in a slop from the backside to the front enhances the apparent depth.

Here is the new layout of my Walstad Aquarium.

There are two gardening Areas. The Right Upper corner one is for Vallis (Tall Grass). Its a bit more deeper since Vallis roots go a bit deeper in the dirt/soil. The front one is for the Lawn and the other plants. The Right Lower corner has been kept empty.

I have placed a marble stone aligned with the front glass. This was done for two reasons:

1. If the dirt/soil (under water) is exposed to sunlight it tends to ooze out more iron into the water which will leads to algae outburst.
2. This will make sure that the grass does not spread, touching the front glass. This will provide me space to clean up the front glass without disturbing any plant.

I missed the similar setup on the right upper corner area.

Cycling:
For cycling my aquarium, I kept some dirt water from the filter sponge. Other ornamental objects (Stones, shells, etc) were not cleaned thoroughly so that the useful bacteria do not die.  All these objects very kept submerged in the same dirty water. While moving them to the new setup, they were just rinsed in running de-chlorinated tap water. This way the tank cycling takes 2-3 days.

During the tear down, I was surprised to see the new runners coming out of Microsword grass. Almost 50% of the Microsword had started growing new runners. It seems that  Microsword grass takes around 3-4 weeks of stabilizing/assimilating time and then it starts to sprout new runners. So I am quite sure that in next 2 months I should be having my Lush Green Aquatic Lawn. :)

Cobra grass didnt seem to show any signs of growth. :( 

Old Setup.

New Setup

New Setup without the House.

The above setup without the house seems to provide more depth to the aquarium because the red stone provides a sloping level from the back to the front.  

Some live Shrimps, Siamese Algae eaters are on the way from  www.MakeMyhobby.com. They should arrive in another 2-3 weeks. I hope they stay alive before I get hold of them.